Sidrapong Hydro-electric Project
A Side Quest near Darjeeling
Our Tonglu trek guide Satya wanted to show us the Sidrapong hydro-electric project not far from Darjeeling. Its claim to fame is that it is the first one in Asia, operational since 1897. Satya made the discovery of this hidden gem, and he says he only takes some clients there whom he considers will appreciate the place and its significance, and also the family that runs it to this day. So on the last day of our stay in Darjeeling, we went to see this place – totally worth it, a different kind of experience, and refreshingly free of the crowds and tourists!
We crossed a bridge (by car) over a pretty little stream to get to the hydro project. Met no one but a caterpillar and dragonfly. The sound of cicadas was constant and loud, yet soothing to the nerve.
The old man, introduced to us as Dadi Ram or Sanu Bhai, is part of the team operating the hydro plant. He lives with his family near the plant. He is the 4th generation of the family that manages the plant. His house was also part of the British-built legacy that’s more or less unchanged in 130 years. Now they are building a homestay attached to the house. A museum and parking shelter is also being built nearby.
The family’s two dogs: Becky, the brown and black one, and the black & white one was called Tejo. After a warm welcome and intros, we set off down to the project, which was some 20 mins walk down a gentle path (thankful for the gentleness, as we had just finished the Tonglu trek the previous day).
It was a beautiful walk, surrounded by the serene hills. The “Inspection Bungalow” was one more of the British legacy buildings maintained intact (in pictures below).
The few simple homes on the path were tidy and well cared for. Saw all kinds of flowering plants there, both cultivated and wild: hibiscus, orchids, orange and pink bougainvillea, angel’s trumpets, lantana, lily. Fruit trees – leechee and jackfruit. Cactus. And more flowers whose names I don’t know.
The power plant was this dilapidated old building, though still in perfect working order. In the pics here you can see its machinery, the panels for each of the neighboring areas where it used to supply power.
Satya said he first read about this project in some books, and then set out to visit it by trekking down from Darjeeling. His fascination for history has made this a special part of his guiding repertoire (we were assured that only “special clients” were brought here!)
He told of the historic moment when Darjeeling got electricity – Nov 1897. A few key places in Darjeeling got light powered by electricity. The Nepalese wrote a love song about this wonderous event, as a girl sings to her lover, asking him to take her to Darjeeling where the fireflies light the night sky.
After the previous day’s long trek we had not expected to walk much today, but happy to say all body parts worked without complaint!
After the visit to the hydro plant, Dadi Ram gave us chai, good day biscuits, and a special delicacy of the region, Sel roti. Upon our guide’s suggestion, we offered money to the old man, but he wouldn’t hear of it. We simply enjoyed their hospitality and went away with a warm fuzzy feeling.
