Tonglu
Some 2-3 months before our 2025 May India trip, I looked at trek possibilities in and around Darjeeling, and found that the only serious multi-day trek option was Sandak Phu – Phalut. After some back and forth with a tour operator, and some ridiculous quotes, we decided not to commit to that, but wing it while in Darjeeling. This trek, Dhotrey – Tonglu – Meghma – Lamey Dhura – Chitre, is what we finally did. It gave a good glimpse of the whole Sandak Phu trek, which we hope one day to come back and do.
We found our guide Satya via local references. He turned out to be a great guide, and a gem of a person. Very knowledgeable and genuinely enthusiastic about the local history, and has a great sense of humor. On the 2 hr car ride from our hotel to Dhotrey, the trek starting point, he introduced himself and started telling us history stories of the area. We warmed to him naturally, and by the time we started the trek, we were very comfortable with each other in our group of 3.
I ❤️ <XYZ>
As seems customary throughout Darjeeling and surrounding parts, they have whole heartedly adopted the touristy sign “I ❤️ place-name”. Not surprisingly, there was a sign “I ❤️ Dhotrey” at the beginning of our walk.
Satya told us to look out for Red Panda: though rare, it was a possibility to sight. “What about snow leopards and panthers and bears?”, I asked. He replied that he’d sent word to them to stay away since he’s coming 🙂 We saw no animals in the end, and I, mostly bringing up the rear of the group, was relieved. (Red panda would have been great, but didn’t fancy meeting any of the others in the wild!)
Started walking at 9:26 am, a gentle climb out of the village of Dhotrey. The entire way was paved with stones and well maintained. We walked through rhododendron forests, but the blooming season was done, except for a few persistent trees which still bloomed.
Most of the hike was through forest cover and cloud cover, the trees adorned with moss and ferns adding a surrealness to the landscape. “Ghost trees” I called them in my mind. Satya pointed to some tall coniferous trees and said they were called Cryptomeria Japonica. The common name is Japanese Cedar or Japanese Redwood.
Parts were out of the thick forest, and here we got some beautiful views: brooding arrays of mountains in the clouds. Kanchenjunga and the Kumbakarna range was somewhere there behind the clouds. Just as with God, we believed blindly without seeing.
Stop before the last climb
10:45 am: We had walked for about 1 hr and 20 mins, when we came to a lovely clearing with a great view of Tonglu. Stopped here under the shelter of a little hut to recharge (bananas, cookies) before the last haul. Two rows of white prayer flags lined the path on either side. White flags signify honor to the dead, we were told.
Set off again at 11:07, Satya predicting that we would reach the top by 12. Tonglu looked still quite distant, but as it turned out, we reached it by 11:35 am. I think guides are trained give you longer estimates so that you feel good with your seemingly quicker time to the top! Distance-wise, he was quite accurate: he had said it’s about 6 km from Dhotrey to the top, and by my watch it was 5.6 km.
About 2 hrs in total for the 600 m ascent. The other two could have done it quicker, if not for me pacing them!
The path joins the car road near the top.
A few land rovers were milling about there with loads of day-trippers. One bunch approached the B for his novel white skin, and quickly made friends with us and took a few selfies with us and their group. These were 2 teachers from Bengal and their wives. We parted with good camaraderie, hand shakes, and warm smiles.
After meeting our lunch hosts briefly, we went to see the actual top of Tonglu complete with a million colorful prayer flags. The views were alternately cloud-covered and clear, both beautiful in their own ways. When the clouds cleared, we could see the hamlet of Tumling just across the border in Nepal.
Satya had arranged for a hot lunch – daal, chawal, sabji at his usual stop at Tonglu: a clean, simple homestay hut where trekkers stop for lunch or the night.
The return hike
1:00 pm: We set off on our way back to our pre-agreed pick up point: the village of Chitre. The hiking trail was closed we were told, and hence we had to hike down by the road. As predicted by our guide, it started raining very soon. Out came our ponchos and rain jacket. I was still soaked to the skin on my legs, though my feet remained dry.
It rained continuously for over 40 mins, and we had to pass a checkpoint for passport inspection in the middle of the downpour. A crowded little hut with Indian soldiers. We were invited to cram in with them into the dark and packed little space. Someone painstakingly wrote our passport details into a physical register by hand. By the time it was done, the rain had eased off. We were on our way again.
The only other things worth mentioning are orchids, yak cheese, and rhododendron wine. Found some wild orchids on the mossy trees, a little shop at Lamhey Dhura had cured yak cheese hanging out, and rhododendron wine bottled in old whiskey bottles.
Got back to the waiting car, wet and pleasantly tired but happy.
