Impressions of Moorish Andalusia
Two unhurried winter weeks by rail through Moorish Andalusia – Valencia, Córdoba, Seville, Granada and Málaga – tracing its Roman, Moorish and Catholic layers.
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Valencia - a soft beginning
A relaxed day and a half in winter Valencia – Plaza del Carmen, the Turia Gardens, the cathedral and the City of Arts – opening a Moorish Andalusia rail trip.
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Córdoba – where the idea becomes a building
A reflective day and a half in Córdoba, where the Mezquita-Cathedral – a cathedral built inside a mosque – makes Andalusia's layered history visible.
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Seville – exuberance, and a quiet refusal
Four winter days in Seville – the Royal Alcázar, Plaza de España, the Giralda and Las Setas – and one traveller's quiet refusal of the bullfight.
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Ronda and Setenil – a Christmas Day escape
Two of Andalusia's off-beat yet dramatic towns in a day: Ronda's gorge-spanning Puente Nuevo and white cliffs, and Setenil, its streets tucked under the rock.
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Granada – a city I'd already visited in my head
Granada, imagined long before I arrived – the Generalife gardens, the white Albaicín, snow on the Sierra Nevada, and a flamenco night that surprised me.
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Málaga – the trip exhales by the sea
The final stop on a Moorish Andalusia rail trip – the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro, the Roman theater, the cathedral's stained glass, and New Year's Eve by the sea.
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When a Food Culture Doesn’t Want You
Eating vegetarian across Andalusia: why Spain's protein-first food culture left me hungry – and the few things it gets gloriously right.
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The Sound of a Wheeled Suitcase on Cobbles
An honest reckoning with over-tourism in Andalusia – the residents' protests, the livelihoods it feeds, and the discomfort of being part of it.
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